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PLUM, TANGERINE, TAMARIND
Oh this is good. My palate has been battered recently by lot after lot of fruit ferments, thermal shocks etc etc, so this has been a very welcome change. Couple of exciting things here, this is a Chiroso, quite a rare varietal quickly gaining in popularity (especially in coffee competitions) for it’s sweet and complex cup profile, not that dissimilar to a Gesha, but with a more heavy and herbaceous body. That’s one exciting thing then, a new rare varietal, secondly, it’s grown by the magician Jairo Arcila, and lastly, it bangs! What a fantastic cup this is. A generous helping of plum and tangerine, super floral, but then this lingering body of tamarind and toffee, it’s fantastic. It’s a super high scoring coffee, 89, and it is a treat. Roasted fairly light but the body really elevates it in an espresso, you can brew this every which and way. I’m reaching for this bean over all of my fancy processing lots at the minute. Enjoy. Joel.
THE COFFEE ITSELF
Chiroso’s story begins in the high-altitude coffee-growing region of Urrao, in the department of Antioquia, Colombia. where it emerged as a natural mutation. For years, it was cultivated by local farmers who appreciated its adaptability to the cool climate and its consistent yields. However, it wasn’t until its success in prestigious coffee competitions like the Cup of Excellence, where it has claimed top awards multiple times, that Chiroso gained international recognition. Its ability to thrive in cooler temperatures and produce a complex, high-quality cup profile has made it a favourite among coffee professionals and farmers alike.
Initially, Chiroso was believed to be a mutation of the Caturra variety due to its similar morphological traits, such as its short stature and light green leaves. However, recent genetic studies have revealed a surprising connection to Ethiopian landrace varieties. This genetic link to Ethiopia, the birthplace of coffee, adds an intriguing layer to Chiroso’s story and helps explain its distinctive characteristics. Chiroso’s trees are compact and well-suited to high-altitude farming, making them easier to manage and harvest. The variety is also known for its high yield and tolerance to cooler temperatures, which are common in the high-altitude regions of Antioquia. These traits make it a practical choice for farmers, while its exceptional cup quality ensures it stands out in the competitive specialty coffee market.
Jairo, and the team of pickers selectively harvest only the ripest cherries. The cherries are then transported to Santa Mónica sorting area, where the team meticulously hand-sorts and float them to eliminate any low-density, underripe, or defective beans. Once sorted, the coffee cherries are packaged in grain pro bags and transported to Cofinet’s processing center, La Pradera. Once at La Pradera, we continue with our quality protocols of sorting. We start by placing coffee cherries in water tanks to float them and to remove any low-density beans and external material. Afterwards, the cherries undergo a 30-hour underwater fermentation—a critical step that enhances the coffee's flavor profile. We do this controlled fermentation process as it allows the sugars, organic acids, and other compounds within the cherries to break down gradually, stimulating the development of a delicate yet interesting profile. The 30-hour fermentation period is carefully calibrated to strike the perfect balance between developing flavor complexity and preserving the coffee's inherent qualities. This results in a harmonious balance of sweetness and acidity, giving our washed coffees a bright and lively character.